Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and visitors alike praising its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, UNESCO honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a select roster of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it becomes part of a global network of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "is a testament to its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and lively food ecosystem," according to a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 cities worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this venerable city comes as little surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, lively, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has consistently defined its heart: an profound passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a ongoing dialogue from morning until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, refined, and elevated to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on every corner, there are small establishments and kiosks – lesser-known gems that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and demanding. The artisan whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though say that their children are reluctant to master the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will inspire more people globally to explore these tales and travel to the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
